Kanderai, Pakistan -- Neglected by the government,
Kanderai, the remains of one of the largest and most fascinating
Buddhist settlements, will soon crumble to dust.
Illegal excavation and government apathy lay waste to historical site.
PHOTOS: FAZAL KHALIQ /EXPRESS
The settlement, locally known as Kanjar Kotey, has been mercilessly excavated and destroyed by smugglers.
The
site is located on top of a hill some three kilometres from Barikot
Bazaar, close to Karakar Pass. Given its position and architecture, it
is likely to have been a key Buddhist settlement.
In its original form, Kanderai possibly included a principal
courtyard, an assembly hall, a great vihara (quadrangle court outlined
with small cells), a smaller vihara, and single storey cells. There also
may have been multi-storey houses with stupas, cisterns, water tanks
and isolated tower houses dotting the site. The remnants of cisterns and
hydraulics coupled with the area’s proximity to natural water sources
point to potential large-scale farming activities.
While there is not much proof a major monastery ever existed here,
structures do point to what may have been a large residential, sacred
site.
A serenity and calmness greets visitors when they first reach
Kanderai. Perhaps this is why, apart from smugglers, the remains also
attract a substantial number of history buffs and tourists.
Amjad
Ali, a local journalist passionate about archaeology, was spending part
of his day exploring various aspects of the ruins. “I am really sorry to
say illegal excavation has not been stopped,” he told The Express
Tribune, greatly disturbed by the sad state of Kanderai.
Extensive excavation can be seen almost everywhere, as smugglers and
fortune seekers seem to have ruthlessly destroyed whatever is left of
the structures.
“Many people, in groups or otherwise, come here with digging tools
and metal detectors to search for coins. Then, they leave the site in a
state of careless disrepair,” pointed out a local farmer. “We have never
seen marauders being stopped or even warned.”
Faisal Yousufzai, a student visiting the Buddhist archaeological
spot, found the area beautiful to visit but shared concerns regarding
the illegal activities which were continuing to go unchecked. “The
government should protect it (Kanderai) by hiring guards to prevent
further destruction,” he argued.
According to archaeological experts, Kanderai has the potential to
reveal Swat’s ancient association with Buddhism, religious tourism and
great eras such as the reign of Emperor Asoka. But none of this can take
place without legal protection.
“Kanderai is probably the largest Buddhist settlement in the Swat
Valley circa third and fourth century. It is a very large and important
ruin, which covers more than three hectares and looks very much like
the Takht Bhai ruins,” explained Dr Luca Maria Olivieri, the Director of
the Italian Archaeological Mission in Swat. The site should be notified
and legally protected by the government, maintained Dr Olivieri.
“If scientific excavation is carried out, rich discoveries are likely
to be made …after excavation it will probably be one of the most
exciting sites in Swat. People will have the same experience they get in
Takht Bhai,” he added.
A rare clue into the region’s phenomenal history, Kanderai might soon
vanish if the loot and plunder combined with the lack of preservation
continue. Without official protection as a heritage site, there will be
nothing left to build archaeological tourism around.
Insight into the lives of Buddhist monks and their wealthy patrons,
who built these great sites as an act of worship, are still within reach
at Kanderai. However, only scientific exploration of the most delicate
nature can now be withstood by these already damaged ruins.